Wednesday, September 2, 2009

Diary of an "unplugged" rower.


Last week, my family and I spent a week in a little cottage on Pemaquid River in New Harbor, ME, near Johns Bay and Pemaquid Lighthouse, and across South Bristol. This has been our fourth year and I consider it my “electronic detox - week”, since I am totally “unplugged” for a whole week. My MacBook stays at home and ATT offers no bars. One can only dream of a G3 internet connection.

It’s been the perfect place for kayaking, reading, family time, games, and fresh lobster from the local and oldest Lobster Coop’s. Yet, this year was different, since I traded our two sea kayaks (a single and a double) for an Echo and a Dolphin (to the chagrin of my family).

We arrived on August 22nd, when hurricane Bill was still roaring. On Sunday we watched 15ft waves off Pemaquid Lighthouse around noon before heading back to our river cottage. At the cottage we had water access only during high tide. Therefore we (I) needed to coordinate every row with the time of high tide. I waited until around 3pm and gave it a try with the Echo. I ventured just a bit into Johns Bay but realized quickly that “Bill” still showed some force even in the bay. I decided on going back into the protected cove and rowing up Pemaquid River for a leisurely row. The river was calm and the weather was perfect. Smooth flat water rowing.


Monday was a Dolphin’s day. The bay had calmed down significantly and only a light breeze created a bit of a choppy surface. It was fun switching into the faster boat. My only obstacles were countless lobster buoys up and down Johns River. After my solo row I ended up turning into a new breed of powerboat pulling Alexandra in her raft (see enclosed video).

Tuesday turned out to be an Echo day. Initially, I dreamt of rowing in Johns Bay towards the Territorial Seas (the open ocean), around Pemaquid Point to Pemaquid Lighthouse. Yet, 2.5 miles into my row the rolling 2.5-3ft swells made me uncomfortable even in the stable Echo. Every so often there would be a 3-4ft wave pushing my heartbeat wayyyyyy above 109 (180 to be exact). I waited for the right moment to turn around in between two waves and went back home.

Wednesday turned back into a Dolphin day. First, I rowed with Ilene, who gave the Echo a try and liked it. Then, I took off by myself and crossed the busy Johns Bay over to South Bristol, where one of the narrowest bridges must be opened before boats can continue into the Damariscotta River. The span of my sculls barely made it through the narrow pathway and bystanders and boaters were watching and probably wondering what a rower was doing in this sacred turf of Maine Lobster fishermen. The row up north and back home was exceptional. Light breeze and wonderful water conditions made a great Dolphin row. At one point I even passed a sailboat. In the end, it was a 10 mile plus.

Thursday was father – daughter - time on the water with my youngest daughter Alexandra (age almost 12). She was in the Echo, which unfortunately was rigged way too high for her (as one can see in the enclosed video). We rowed about ninety minutes and a total of 3+ miles up and down the protected area of Pemaquid River. In the end, Alexandra enjoyed the whole experience and even accepted her first painful blisters. Afterwards, I ended up going out for another solo row in the Dolphin into Johns Bay and up north along Johns River.

On Friday I decided to get up at 5:30am and row during the end of the night/morning high tide. I was greeted by a beautiful sunrise and calm waters. On my way out into the bay a seal greeted me and sent some good morning smiles. This made my day. I then continued into Johns Bay and towards Pemaquid Point knowing that I did not have much time since the morning tide was more than a foot lower than the afternoon high tide. My goal was still seeing the Pemaquid Lighthouse. The seas were smooth and only a few lobstermen shared with me the calmness of the morning. Seeing a second seal on my way back, I returned home fulfilled with a week of daily rows.

In the end, I had enjoyed more than 50 miles of beautiful rowing in the river and open waters of Maine. Next year, we are planning on spending two weeks “unplugged”.

4 comments:

  1. No wonder you are in such a great shape, but you broke the one zero niner club rule by going into the 180 territory caused by some tiny waves!

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  2. Jon, you are right. I will try not to do it again. Will you take me out with you on one of your rows so that I can learn how to take on the big ones. Then, I won't be scared about the small ones.

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  3. Glad to hear you made it through the gut...the locals claim that is the busiest opening bridge on the east coast. I'll have to row the Damariscotta next year, although starting at the other end where my parents live. I won't tell you where, because they have an open access WiFi network on the river and you might violate your internet detox.

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  4. Sounds like an incredible week on the water.

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